Roberto Gallieni

Acting

Roberto Gallieni

Born — Died

1929-01-01 — 1991-05-15

Place of birth

Italy

Known for

Acting

Credits

4 titles

Roberto Gallieni (1929–1991) was an Italian mountaineer and engineer. He was one of the three survivors—out of a party of seven—of the 1961 Frêney Pillar tragedy in the Mont Blanc massif, alongside Walter Bonatti and Pierre Mazeaud. Initially, Gallieni was a client of the high-mountain guide Walter Bonatti; the two later became friends and regular climbing partners. Historians note that in 1961, Bonatti was working as a guide in Courmayeur, and Gallieni engaged his services as a client. Key dates in his mountaineering career include: 1959 – February 26. Andrea Oggioni, Carlo Mauri, and Roberto Gallieni climbed the south face of the Dent du Géant via the Burgasser/Leisz route, completing th…

Known for

Frêney 1961 – Adventure and Tragedy poster
10.0

On July 11, 1961, a rope team of seven men—led by the Italian Walter Bonatti and the Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud—set out to scale the Frêney Pillar on the south face of Mont Blanc. After days of grueling effort—and just as they were nearing their goal—they were trapped by a violent storm. Stranded at an altitude of over 4,500 meters in temperatures of minus 20 degrees, the seven climbers were forced to bivouac in hellish conditions. Exhausted, spent, and with one of their number injured, they displayed extraordinary solidarity, exemplary courage, and a determination that commands respect right to the very end. Yet the mountain proved cruel. Lost in fog, blinded by the darkness, and gripped by the cold, four of the seven climbers perished from exhaustion after a perilous five-day, five-night ordeal in hell. Only three made it down alive, including the Italian Walter Bonatti and the Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud.

Frêney 1961 – Adventure and Tragedy

1997

Al Filo De Lo Imposible poster
9.5

Al Filo De Lo Imposible is a documentary series, broadcast on the second Spanish channel, with the theme of adventure and exploration of wild and extreme places on Earth, such as climbing peaks over 8,000 meters, exploring the polar ice caps, free-flying crossings, scuba diving, etc. This series, which includes more than two hundred documentaries whose first program was broadcast in January 1982, under the title "Dimension 8000", is the only television program that has filmed the 14 peaks over 8,000 meters high that exist on the planet, as well as the three poles (the North Pole, the South Pole and Everest).

Al Filo De Lo Imposible

1982

Les Parois de la Mémoire - Le Pilier Central du Frêney poster
10.0

Les Parois de la Mémoire – Le Pilier Central du Frêney is a 25-minute documentary film directed by Jérôme Equer in 1994 and broadcast on the FR3 weekly program Montagne. The film highlights the tragic story of the July 1961 attempt to climb the Frêney Central Pillar (on the Italian side of Mont Blanc), during which a Franco-Italian team—led notably by Pierre Mazeaud and Walter Bonatti—was trapped by a violent, multi-day storm of exceptional intensity, resulting in a tragic retreat and the deaths of four of the seven climbers. It draws on archival footage, excerpts from Lothar Brandler’s film Inferno am Montblanc, and firsthand accounts from the participants, including mountaineer and politician Pierre Mazeaud.

Les Parois de la Mémoire - Le Pilier Central du Frêney

1994

Inferno on Mont Blanc poster
10.0

Re-enactment of the attempt made in July 1961 by a french-italian group in order to climb Freney Pillar, in Mont Blanc massif. The expedition was composed by the frenchmen Pierre Mazaud, Robert Guillaume, Pierre Kohlmann and Antoine Vieille and by the italians Walter Bonatti, Andrea Oggioni e Roberto Gallieni. The groups arrived separatly to the camp of Col de la Fourche, but with the same aim. They united by chance to conquest the famous peak. The attempt is crushed by bad wheather and, during the descent, three French and an Italian will die.

Inferno on Mont Blanc

1972

Film credits

1990s · 2 titles

Frêney 1961 – Adventure and Tragedy poster
10.0

On July 11, 1961, a rope team of seven men—led by the Italian Walter Bonatti and the Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud—set out to scale the Frêney Pillar on the south face of Mont Blanc. After days of grueling effort—and just as they were nearing their goal—they were trapped by a violent storm. Stranded at an altitude of over 4,500 meters in temperatures of minus 20 degrees, the seven climbers were forced to bivouac in hellish conditions. Exhausted, spent, and with one of their number injured, they displayed extraordinary solidarity, exemplary courage, and a determination that commands respect right to the very end. Yet the mountain proved cruel. Lost in fog, blinded by the darkness, and gripped by the cold, four of the seven climbers perished from exhaustion after a perilous five-day, five-night ordeal in hell. Only three made it down alive, including the Italian Walter Bonatti and the Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud.

Frêney 1961 – Adventure and Tragedy

1997

Les Parois de la Mémoire - Le Pilier Central du Frêney poster
10.0

Les Parois de la Mémoire – Le Pilier Central du Frêney is a 25-minute documentary film directed by Jérôme Equer in 1994 and broadcast on the FR3 weekly program Montagne. The film highlights the tragic story of the July 1961 attempt to climb the Frêney Central Pillar (on the Italian side of Mont Blanc), during which a Franco-Italian team—led notably by Pierre Mazeaud and Walter Bonatti—was trapped by a violent, multi-day storm of exceptional intensity, resulting in a tragic retreat and the deaths of four of the seven climbers. It draws on archival footage, excerpts from Lothar Brandler’s film Inferno am Montblanc, and firsthand accounts from the participants, including mountaineer and politician Pierre Mazeaud.

Les Parois de la Mémoire - Le Pilier Central du Frêney

1994

Series credits