Don Whillans

This is the story of two expeditions to two mountains, one in Argentina the other in Chile. Despite being twelve years apart, one man went on both trips. Don Whillans was an icon of British climbing in the 50s and 60s and his routes are still test pieces today.

Leo Dickinson’s re-editing of the classic first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, filmed by Vic Bray. The 44-year-old original footage was salvaged from a loft and shows Chris Bonington and Don Whillans in action. Readings from Don’s journal add depth and a recreation of a double rope snapping incident adds the necessary spice.

First broadcast on Channel 4 in 1985, Lakeland Rock is a classic of climbing. Presented by Sir Chris Bonington, this 1990 documentary comprises four films that retrace five iconic routes, each representing a major milestone in a sport that reflects the social transformations of Great Britain. From the 1940s, when working-class people began climbing mountains, to the 1980s, marked by technological advancements, the rise of female climbers, and the soaring difficulty of sport climbing with its near-Olympic levels of physical preparation. In three of the films, the climbers recreate their first ascents, with a tribute to their deceased climbing partners, Don Whillans and Bill Peascod. Also included is the first filmed ascent of "Incantations" on Gable Crag by Pete Whillance and Dave Armstrong, which, rated E6 6b, was considered at the time to be the most difficult route in the Lake District.

In this documentary first broadcast in 1993, Chris Bonington looks back at the first ever expeditions to conquer Mount Everest and the effect that the achievement of climbing the mountain had on climbing as a whole worldwide.

“Dovedale Groove” is a documentary about rock climbing that takes place at Dove Crag. It was directed by Paul Berriff in 1985 and produced by Border Television. It is a part of the series Lakeland rock (2/6). It features Chris Bonington and Don Whillans.

A film documenting the British expedition attempting to climb the remote peak of Torre Egger in Patagonia in 1974 by Don Whillans, Martin Boysen, Paul 'Tut' Braithwaite, Eric Jones, Mick Coffey, and Keith Lewis. They didn't succeed on Torre Egger and changed direction in the last days of the trip and climbed the Innominata Needle (also known as Aguja Rafael Juarez). The documentary is part of the series 'Pushing the limits', a series of 10 programs by Leo Dickinson documenting sporting adventures which often test the limits of human endurance.

Doug Scott and Roger Baxter-Jones climb Broad Peak.

The making of a climbing series is a documentary about rock climbing that takes place in Eagle Crag and Dove Crag. It was directed by Jo Wright in 1985 and produced by Border Television. It is a part of the series Lakeland rock (6/6). It features Chris Bonington, Bill Peascod, Don Whillans, Pete Livesey, Gill Price, Jill Lawrence and others.

Don Whillans and Joe Brown climbing Cemetery Gates (E1) on Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass. They made the first ascent 32 years before. They were good friends since they met in 1951. Tragically this was Don's last major climb as he died a few months later. Don Whillans, was a leading climber of his generation. Whillans climbed the Bonatti Pillar of the Dru and made the first ascent, along with Chris Bonington, Jan Długosz and Ian Clough of the Central Pillar of Freney on Mount Blanc. In 1962, with Chris Bonington, Whillans made the first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia. Later, with Dougal Haston, he made the first ascent of the south face of Annapurna. Whillans was known for his humour, safety and heavy drinking.

In 1971, a year after Maestri's ascent to Cerro Torre, filmmaker Leo Dickinson climbed and filmed an attempt on the Compressor Route. Dickinson left only a few pieces of clean protection at his highpoint (the headwall ice towers) and no additional fixed gear. While he and the rest of the team did not reach the summit, his reaction to the bolts on the Compressor Route compelled him to travel to Italy to interview Maestri. The result was this documentary.

In August 1970 a spectacular rock climb was televised live on BBC in color. Seven climbers attempted three different routes on the cliffs of Anglesey. The event, presented by Christopher Brasher was transmitted live through 4 connections over the course of 31st of august. The routes climbed were: Spider's Web, by Joe Brown and Ian McNaught-Davis; Wen Slab, by Peter Crew and Don Whillans; and Tyrannosaurus Rex, by Laurie and Les Holliwell, and Janet Rogers. This was the first color live climbing program on BBC, following on from the success of earlier programs such as the ascent of the Old Man of Hoy in 1967.

This entertaining film documents the first ascent of the very difficult South Face of Annapurna, a huge Himalayan wall that the right team could achieve the seemingly impossible. The ascent of the South Face of Annapurna in 1970 was one of those breakthrough ascents - both technically and psychologically. Chris Bonington assembled the cream of British mountaineering and American Tom Frost for the attempt. The documentary is punctuated by wry observation, understatement and cutting humor from a by-gone age when the game of taking huge risks was matched by a determination not to take it too seriously.

In 1971, American Norman Dyhrenfurth led an expedition of 30 climbers from 13 different countries, including Don Whillans, Dougal Haston, Naomi Uemura, Pierre Mazeaud, Michel Vaucher, and others. This expedition aimed to simultaneously climb the southwest face and the direct west ridge. During the ascent, Indian climber Harsh Vardhan Bahuguna perished at Camp 3 in a storm. The expedition, already suffering from organizational problems, was severely tested after his death. The Americans decided, unilaterally, to abandon the west ridge. The Europeans, who had spent days equipping the route, were left out and felt relegated to the roles of route setters and porters. Frenchman Pierre Mazeaud, Swiss climbers Michel and Yvette Vaucher, and Italian Carlo Mauri then left the expedition. The Americans continued their ascent of the southwest face up to 8,350 meters before giving up.

On 28 September 1963, the BBC broadcast a live program of an ascent of Snowdon's Clogwyn du'r Arddu, 'the finest crag in Britain south of Scottish border'. It starred the French climber Robert Paragot alongside the cream of British talent: Joe Brown, Don Whillans, and Ian Mcnaught-Davis. The program had commentary by Chris Brasher and it was transmitted on Grandstand between Davis Cup tennis and Horse racing from Newbury. Grandstand presenter David Coleman introduced the climb as a TV first -the first-ever live coverage of UK mountaineering. Unfortunately, the action was clouded by rain and mist, and many of the cameras failed on the day of the broadcast, so most of the images of the climb ended being a kind of blurred haze.